Suitology

Suitology

An informed guide to perfecting the suit.

Knotting up to the right concoctions, to making a suit the suit, begins at each shoulder and finishes with fine footwear. This is surely significant an affair, for the gentleman. To whom we sign out some secrets to simply perfecting the suit.

Start at the shoulders, they said.

A well-fitted jacket sits, right on the shoulder. Not an inch past the shoulder, dropping to gravity, not an inch against. This means perfection, suit jackets dropping off the shoulder, too loose for the arm, is certain to slop the look down. Spare yourself the strain, with the suit jacket sitting back at the shoulder, that is too tight to simply wear.

The idea is to tailor every inch to detail, meaning never wear it off the rack, get it altered to your frame. Even better, if you get it tailored, from a trusted and reputable couturier. Since the shoulders hold the suit, like an armature. You are sure to make a wrong opinion, out of this garment particularly, if it isn’t matching with measurements.

Suitology - Start At The Shoulders

What's in the collar.

Well, let’s see. At a synchronized angle, the collar of the suit jacket should follow with the shirt collar, giving a pattern. And for the overlapping lapel, that is the folded flap of material on the front of the suit jacket, which is an extension of the collar. This must rest flat over the shit underneath, leaving no room to lift up gaps, to give an even look.

These little details will sharpen the rough edges, literally. Showing how important it is to start, right, at the shoulders.

Suitology - What is in the Collar

Format button.

There is a method to this madness, with making the right knot, in the right place. In case your suit jacket has only two buttons, just fasten the top button. If it is three buttoned, on the front, fasten the button in between. Anywhere above the navel, is acceptable.

However, if your jacket is too loose, the button is bound to fall below the navel. Don’t attempt by yielding to knot up, the first of the three buttons, here. This is never the way to go about it.

Suitology - Format Button

Level on Length.

Within a quarter to an inch of the cuff of your shirt should be seen, under the arms of where the jacket ends. Leaving the sleeve of the jacket, to fall to the bed of your wrist, where the thumb joins. Leave the beak to the trousers, without too much break, to look sloppy and dense. An inch high, over your shoes, should look just fine. Too short, a break, shows off the shocks and your ankles.

Suitology - Level on Length

Soundcheck with Shoes.

A formal pair, of Oxfords and Derbies, are an ideal pick of choice over suits. In traditional colours like black, brown and burgundy. Over a selection of navy blue, black, grey and brown suits. There is much-needed room to experiment, with formal shoes, apart from classic lace-ups.

Shoes like the formal, Brogues, Loafers and Chukka Boots are an option too. Dress by the occasion in even Dress Formals, which would look grad over at the evening event.

Suitology - Soundcheck with Shoes

Have a look at the Formal’s collection, by Toni Rossi. It’s heartwarming and you might just find exactly what you are looking for. To complete the look of the suit, in sheer class, the gentlemen style.

You may also like

Cant afford daily maintenance?

Nothing can be more daunting that finding out your shoes have shrunk. But, most shoes have the tendency of getting a little too snug around the feet and calves. Solution

Read More

All about shoes

Running short of time and yet don’t want to comprise on sporting the right footwear? Don’t break a sweat – invest in a nifty pair of

Read More